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MANUAL — CARE & GARMENT INSTRUCTIONS LAUNDRY SYMBOLS — WHAT THEY MEAN WASHING Basin with water — Machine wash Hand in basin — Hand wash only X through basin — Do not wash 30 / 40 / 60 — Maximum water temperature in °C One dot = 30°C (cold) · Two dots = 40°C (warm) · Three dots = 60°C (hot) DRYING Square — Tumble dry permitted Square with X — Do not tumble dry One dot in square — Low heat tumble dry Two dots — Medium heat Three dots — High heat Square with line — Line dry (hang) Square with curve — Drip dry Square with lines — Dry flat IRONING Iron symbol — Can be ironed One dot — Low heat (110°C) · Synthetic, acetate, acrylic Two dots — Medium heat (150°C) · Polyester, wool, silk Three dots — High heat (200°C) · Linen, cotton X through iron — Do not iron DRY CLEANING Circle — Dry clean P in circle — Any solvent except trichloroethylene F in circle — Petroleum solvent only W in circle — Wet cleaning permitted X through circle — Do not dry clean BLEACHING Triangle — Bleach permitted CL in triangle — Chlorine bleach only X through triangle — Do not bleach FABRIC-SPECIFIC CARE GUIDE Silk Hand wash in cool water with gentle detergent or dry clean. Never wring — roll in a towel to remove moisture. Iron on low heat on reverse side while slightly damp. Store away from light — silk yellows with UV exposure. Wool / Cashmere Hand wash in cold water or dry clean. Lay flat to dry — never hang (stretches with weight). Store folded, not hung. Use cedar, not mothballs. Steam rather than iron wherever possible. Linen Machine wash on cool or warm. Tumble dry low. Expects to wrinkle — this is character, not a flaw. Iron while damp for a crisp finish. Softens with every wash. Velvet Dry clean only for silk velvet. Brush with a soft brush in pile direction. Never crush or fold — store hanging. Steam to restore pile. Avoid pressure — finger marks and creases are difficult to remove. Lace Hand wash only in cool water with delicate detergent. Support the entire piece in water — never wring or twist. Dry flat on a clean towel. Do not iron directly — press through a cloth. CARE LABEL WRITING GUIDE Standard care label sequence (EU / international): 1. Washing instruction 2. Bleaching instruction 3. Drying instruction 4. Ironing instruction 5. Professional textile care (dry cleaning) Always include fiber content on the care label. EU law requires fiber content disclosure for all garments sold commercially. Include country of origin on labels intended for sale.

MANUAL — COLOR THEORY & SEASONAL PALETTE THE COLOR WHEEL — RELATIONSHIPS Primary colors: Red · Yellow · Blue Secondary colors: Orange · Green · Violet Tertiary colors: The six between primary and secondary HARMONY TYPES Complementary Colors directly opposite on the wheel. Maximum contrast. Maximum tension. Maximum impact. Red + Green · Blue + Orange · Violet + Yellow Use carefully — both colors fight for attention. One should dominate, one should accent. Analogous Three to five colors adjacent on the wheel. Naturally harmonious. Feels cohesive, organic, easy to wear. The most common approach in fashion collections. Example: Dusty rose · Mauve · Lavender · Soft violet. Triadic Three colors equally spaced around the wheel. Vibrant and balanced. Requires confidence. Example: Red · Yellow · Blue. Split-Complementary A color plus the two colors adjacent to its complement. The tension of complementary without the full confrontation. More sophisticated than straight complementary. Monochromatic One hue in multiple tones, shades, and tints. The most elegant and the most technically demanding. Tonal fashion — the approach of masters. Fabric texture and finish become the variation when color stays constant. WARM VS COOL UNDERTONES Warm: red, yellow, orange base. Advances visually. Flatters warm skin tones. Cool: blue, green, violet base. Recedes visually. Flatters cool skin tones. Neutral: balanced. Flatters all skin tones. Understanding undertone is why two "beige" fabrics look wrong together. THE SEASONAL COLOR SYSTEM (FASHION APPLICATION) Spring: Warm, light, clear. Yellow-based undertones. Ivory not white. Palette: Warm peach · Coral · Warm aqua · Golden yellow · Clear warm green. Summer: Cool, muted, soft. Blue-based undertones. Soft contrast. Palette: Lavender · Powder blue · Soft rose · Mauve · Cool grey. Autumn: Warm, deep, muted. Golden undertones. Rich earthiness. Palette: Rust · Burnt orange · Olive · Chocolate · Mustard · Deep teal. Winter: Cool, deep, clear. High contrast. Blue-based undertones. Palette: True white · Black · Icy blue · True red · Deep burgundy. BUILDING A COLLECTION PALETTE The Rule of Three Most successful fashion palettes use three color roles: 1. Foundation — the dominant neutral (60% of collection) 2. Support — a secondary color that carries the season's mood (30%) 3. Accent — a single statement color used sparingly (10%) Neutrals in fashion True neutrals: Black · White · Grey · Beige · Navy · Camel Fashion neutrals: Colors that behave as neutrals in context — Burgundy · Forest green · Deep navy · Warm taupe The role of fabric in color The same dye color on silk charmeuse and on boiled wool reads as completely different colors. Sheen amplifies. Matte absorbs. Always evaluate color in the final fabric. Color chips lie. WORKING WITH BLACK Black is not the absence of color. In fashion it is a decision. Black with warm undertones (soft black, off-black) reads as rich. Black with cool undertones (true black) reads as sharp. Black on black — texture and finish carry the look when value is constant.

MANUAL — SOURCING & GARMENT COSTING WHY COSTING MATTERS A garment that cannot be priced profitably cannot become a business. The most beautiful work in the world is not sustainable if the numbers do not work. Costing is not a compromise of the creative — it is the discipline that allows the creative to continue. THE COST OF GOODS (COG) FORMULA Total COG = Fabric cost + Lining cost + Notions + Labor + Overhead Fabric cost Meters required × price per meter × waste factor (typically 1.15–1.25) Always add 15–25% for cutting waste, matching, and mistakes. Lining Calculated separately at its own per-meter cost. Notions Every zip, button, hook, interfacing, label, thread, and trim. List every item. Notions are consistently underestimated. Add a 10% notions buffer for items missed. Labor Your time has value. If you make it yourself, calculate it honestly. Hourly rate × hours to construct. For production: factory costing per unit or CMT (Cut Make Trim) rate. Overhead Studio rent, electricity, equipment depreciation, website, insurance. Divide total monthly overhead by number of garments produced per month. This is your overhead cost per garment. PRICING STRATEGY Keystone pricing (retail standard) Wholesale price = COG × 2 Retail price = Wholesale × 2 Example: COG $80 → Wholesale $160 → Retail $320 Designer / luxury pricing COG × 4 to × 8 at retail. Justified by brand positioning, exclusivity, and craftsmanship. Direct-to-consumer pricing COG × 3 to × 5 at retail (no wholesale margin required). Allows either better margin or more competitive pricing. THE PRICING RULE Never price below your COG. Price at a level the brand can sustain. A garment priced too low signals the wrong things about the work. The price is part of the story. Price with intention. FABRIC SOURCING — WHERE PROFESSIONALS BUY Trade shows (wholesale access) Première Vision (Paris) — premier international fabric trade show Texworld (Paris / New York) — broad international fabric sourcing Kingpins (Amsterdam / New York / Hong Kong) — denim specialist Moda In (Milan) — Italian mills and luxury fabrics Most require trade credentials or business registration. Online wholesale Mood Fabrics — wide range, accessible to independent designers The Fabric Store — quality basics and fashion fabrics Europatex — European fabric agents Liberty Fabrics — iconic English printed fabrics Silk Baron — silk specialist Mills direct Italian mills (Como region for silk, Biella for wool) sell direct at sufficient MOQ (minimum order quantity). Typically 50–100m minimum. Build relationships. Mills remember designers who pay on time. LOCAL SOURCING Fabric districts still exist in most major cities. New York: Garment District, W 37th–40th St London: Berwick Street, Soho Los Angeles: Downtown LA Fabric District Paris: Marché Saint-Pierre, Montmartre Tokyo: Nippori Textile Town Local sourcing allows small quantities, immediate availability, and the ability to touch the fabric before buying. MINIMUM ORDER QUANTITIES (MOQ) Retail: No minimum. Pay per meter. Wholesale / mill: 50–300 meters depending on supplier. Custom dyeing: 100–500 meters minimum typically. Custom weave: 300+ meters. Commission work for established houses. TRIMS & NOTIONS SUPPLIERS M&J Trimming (New York) — buttons, ribbons, trims Prym / Merchant & Mills — professional haberdashery Wawak — professional sewing notions YKK — industry standard zippers (YKK is not a brand, it is a quality floor)

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